Burberry AW21 ‘Escapes’

The natural world is the star of Ricardo Tisci's first standalone menswear collection for Burberry. Peter Gray reports.

Burberry’s first collection of 2021 takes its inspiration from the creativity of the 19th century Arts & Crafts movement and the freedom of the outdoors. 

Riccardo Tisci’s first standalone menswear collection is also resoundingly gender neutral, with men in skirts and female models aplenty. 

‘For my first Burberry menswear-focused collection, I wanted to celebrate the freedom of expression” said Tisci of his AW21 effort. “Enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outdoors and its beauty, fuelled by the thought of the creativity that comes when we are together. 

“With this dream in mind, I became fascinated by the widespread British craft and outdoor movements of the early 20th Century, when people escaped to explore the unknown countryside”.

Burberry AW21 Escapes image 2

Burberry have released a typically stylish film to showcase the new collection. Set to a hauntingly minimalist soundtrack by British composer Bridget Samuel, the film was shot at the fashion house’s Regent Street store.

Escapes is a much more simple affair than the brand’s SS21 show, which featured an elaborate stadium structure in the middle of the countryside and a series of highly choreographed dramatic sequences.

The clothes are the stars here – and what a collection it is! Set against a monochromatic beige background, Burberry’s latest collection dazzles with its cool symmetry and intriguing twists.

The collection is dominated by natural motifs, with extensive use of mink, fox fur prints & deer motifs.

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The palette manages to incorporate Burberry’s signature beige but enlivens it with generous doses of brown, burgundy & grey. 

However, although the collection pays homage to the natural world, the feel is incredibly modern and up to date. The fashion house’s classic tailoring is continually subverted with thrilling twists, from militaristic button placements to the use of badges and icons. 

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Many were surprised that Burberry chose the gender neutral LFW21 to showcase their first standalone menswear collection but the fashion house have certainly engaged with the spirit of the event, with a host of male models in skirts and several outfits modeled by women. 

The move demonstrates just how well Burberry’s latest collection works in a gender neutral setting and how flexible Riccardo Tisci’s clever designs are. 

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“This collection is an homage to the relationship between humanity and nature, where we can break free and come together to discover new forms of expression. It’s for those who are defining their own path, whose strength and energy have inspired this Burberry collection” says the accompanying press release for the collection.

“Tied intrinsically to founder Thomas Burberry’s creations, the idea of optimism and adventure underscores the collection. Modern explorers, pioneers and trailblazers are an inspiration; the garments have a function and purpose. They represent a reality but they are always worn by dreamers” the statement continues.

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-London's Best Events-
What: fashion
When: autumn 2021
Where: instore/online
Website: Burberry