Burberry have long been known for their stylish, elegant and on trend clothing but the brand have never really done sexy. Well, until last week, that is, when the fashion house produced their most slinky and alluring collection yet: the Burberry SS22 Womenswear Collection.
Presented by way of a film, Animal Instinct saw the brand showcase cut-out bodysuits with bondage-style layers and a boldly reconstructed trench coat featuring a rather naughty, bottom revealing back.
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The Burberry SS22 Womenswear Collection – the new trench coat
The most daring aspect of the SS22 was the new, deconstructed Burberry trench coat. The iconic garment was given several new designs, with strong and striking silhouettes to the fore. The most eye catching of the designs had a most novel innovation with the gabardine cropped at the back to reveal the wearers undergarments.
Elsewhere, all in one crystal embellished bodysuits shimmered with sensual possibilities while figure-hugging trousers and cleavage accentuating tops gave strong hints of the brand’s bold, new artistic direction.
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Freedom of movement was explored though flowing cap-sleeved and halterneck gowns with thigh-high splits while mini dresses were adorned with sweeping exaggerated fringing, frills, and straps, and paired with juxtaposing oversized jackets.
Signature outerwear in soft fawn and dark biscuit shades was transformed through daring detailing, from exaggerated lapels to chain-link embellishments, sleeveless proportions to raw hems.
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A kaleidoscope of geometric and experimental abstract prints – evoking the flowing forms of camouflage – and the ‘Universal Passport’ graphic adorned dresses and shirts, layered under printed sheer or mesh tops to create new harmonies of pattern. Geometric colour-block intarsia and prints on dresses and oversized sleeveless blazers.
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Here are some of the other key aspects of the collection:
Bags
Introducing the Rhombi, a new ellipse-shaped shoulder bag inspired by the abstract curved prints in the collection. The structured shape is sculpted to the body and features a lightly padded strap with an oversized clasp detail. Presented in a smooth leather in soft fawn and black, and in coated canvas in birch brown check. Inspired by the iconic trench coat, a style in cotton gabardine features signature double stitching. Clutch iterations include black leather with ring-pierced details or metallic fringing, both with an oversized clasp handle. Joining the style is a cut-out Thomas Burberry Monogram in quilted nappa leather in black and soft fawn.
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The Olympia bag evolves. A signature style for the house, it has a crescent curve and an athletic aura which is developed for this season in a softer shape in leather, with a circular strap.
Shoes
Square-toe calf leather sandals, with and without a toe-ring detail, feature a press-stud T-bar and buckled ankle strap – a minimalist style to leave feet bare. Set on a slim high heel or a flat leather sole in black, white, and soft fawn. The simple shape also comes as an exaggerated over-the-knee sock boot with an open toe, in black.
Accessories
Conceptual shaped panels in neoprene, leather and layered tulle are fixed to cotton baseball caps. Thick, soft leather chokers with porthole details in black and soft fawn.
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Palladium-plated rings and toe rings are worn in multiples with concealed double-finger bands creating the appearance of floating crystal embellishments and chain links. Leather and palladium-plated clasps become hoop earrings, and the signature buckled belt from the trench coat is reworked as a bracelet in black leather with ring-pierced details.
Key prints
Abstract shapes are layered in vivid tones or mirrored in monochrome. Tortoiseshell and camouflage prints provide a complement. The ‘Universal Passport’ design is reconstructed and stretched.
Key colours
Neutral shades of soft fawn and Burberry beige with rich dark birch brown, warm walnut, black and white. Accents of bubblegum pink, plus yellow, orange, and red in prints.
Riccardo Tisci
‘To me, this presentation really represents the freedom of our imaginations: how we dream to come alive. I wanted to move through a series of immersive spaces, each of them unique and unexpected in their sound, texture, and experience. It’s that idea of flicking between the endless realities and fantasies we have at our fingertips each day” says Burberrys’ Chief Creative Officer Riccardo Tisci of the fashion house’s new collection.
“This is for my mother, Elmerinda, and to a journey full of new possibilities.’ He continues, clearly excited by the direction that Burberry is taking under his leadership.
Burberry SS22 Womenswear Collection – The Details
The Burberry SS22 Womenswear Presentation was directed by Partel Olivia. The company, which is made up of Lola Raban-Oliva & JR Etienne, have a reputation for working across a variety of different platforms, from film to art and fashion. With offices in both Paris and New York, the company are best known for their work as creative directors of the brand KENZO.
The choreography for the show was created by Josh Johnson and Marquet Lee with make-up by Isamaya Ffrench and styling by Katy England.
As a part of their commitment to diversity and inclusion, Burberry have made a practice out of naming all of the models who appear in their shows. For the Burberry SS22 Womenswear Presentation, the list was:
Anita Pozzo, Briana Smith, Candice Swanepoel, Chai Maximus, Chisom Okeke, Chu Wong, Claire Delozier, Cyrielle Lalande, Evie Harris, Felice Noordhoff, Flavie Sammartano, Fran Summers, Frankie Rayder, Genevieve Amobi, Hannah Motler, Irina Shayk, Joan Smalls, Karo Laczkowska, Kate McNamara, Kateryna Lashko, Kayako Higuchi, Laura Helene, Loli Bahia, Maria Cosima, Maria Keidj, Mariacarla Boscono, Marina Nechyporuk, Martina Biondino, Maty Fall, Mayowa Nicholas, Mika Schneider, Mona Tougaard, Morgane Stengel, Nyasha Matonhodze, Paula Rudevica, Rachelle Harris, Renata Scheffer, Rianne Van Rompaey, Sacha Quenby, Sol Jeong, Valeria Buldini, Vira Boshkova, Yilan Hua.
Burberry and the environment
The Burberry SS22 Womenswear Presentation will be certified carbon neutral. To achieve this, Burberry will take measures to reduce the environmental impact of the event before offsetting any remaining emissions through their Regeneration Fund. The fund supports a range of carbon insetting and offsetting projects which help to restore natural habitats and biodiversity, improving carbon capture and enhancing local communities with skills and training.
The full Burberry SS22 Womenswear Collection can be viewed here.
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